The trail has finally left North Carolina and entered Tennessee for good. For the last 220 miles, the trail has roughly straddled the NC-TN border which follows the spine of the Appalachians. On a ridge line, step to the right and you are in North Carolina. Step to the left and you are in Tennessee.
During the past week I crossed a section called the Roan Highlands. The highlands start with a climb of Roan Mountain, 6285 feet elevation. The top of this mountain was once the site of the “legendary” Cloudland Hotel which operated from 1885 to 1910. Today, there is barely a trace of the hotel other than a forest service placard. The hotel was built right on the NC-TN line. Supposedly, there was a line painted across the banquet room. On the Tennessee side of the line, guests could legally consume alcohol, whereas on the North Carolina side, it was illegal.
After Roan Mountain, the trail takes a series of ups and downs over a line of grassy “balds” including Round Bald, Jane Bald, Little Hump Mountain, and Hump Mountain, all in the 5500 – 5800 foot range. The balds have great 360 degree views – when the weather cooperates.
In the highlands, I stayed at a shelter called the Overmountain Shelter. This shelter is a converted barn. It is one of the most popular shelters on the AT due to its spaciousness and fine views.
I was fortunate to be sleeping indoors since a thunderstorm rolled through during the night. When the rain hit, the residents soon discovered that although the roof was good, the walls were porous. There was a mad scramble where everyone scooted away from the walls toward the center of the barn.
As chance would have it, I rolled out my sleeping bag right next to two other hikers from Northern KY. Jerry (from Covington) and Amy (from Independence) are in the process of hiking a 120-mile section of the AT from Erwin, TN to Damascus, VA. Small world.
After leaving the highlands, I hiked through the Laurel Fork Gorge. This was a really pretty section and I passed many local day hikers. I was surprised to see that the azaleas and rhododendrons were already blooming there – a sign of things to come.
I have been photographing many wildflowers along the trail. Some of my favorites are the Trilliums which come in many varieties.
My latest birding success was to photograph the Rose-breasted Grosbeak. When I looked up this pair online, I was surprised to find that they were the same species.
On the Lepidoptera front…
This is absolutely fascinating! Really enjoying reading your updates. I read your gear list, and would like to see how/where all it is stowed while you hike.
Thanks, Shelley. Next time I am at a hotel or other good spot, I will shoot a short video of packing up my gear. That will be easier than trying to describe. I have the packing pretty well down pat now.
Randy, your blog is fantastic. Amazing photos and great narrative. Can’t wait to see your life list of birds when you get back. Take care
Thanks, Bruce. Bagged the Scarlet Tanager yesterday. Spectacular bird. I know you are excited.